UNGARO

Kobi Halperin, Creative Director of Ungaro, enters the room and the atmosphere subtly shifts. The showroom hums with activity as buyers, press, and photographers circulate, while models glide past, each look a living embodiment of the collection’s spirit. Since his debut, Halperin has revitalised the historic house, seamlessly merging its iconic DNA with a contemporary vision of femininity. Fabrics move with fluid grace. Craftsmanship speaks quietly through every seam. Elegance radiates with ease, never declared, always perceived. Colour and understated drama define his signature, shaping a wardrobe for women whose sophistication is instinctive, expressed through posture, gesture, and presence.

For Autumn/Winter 2026 to 2027 at Paris Fashion Week, Halperin drew inspiration from Portrait of Madame X, translating its enigmatic allure into a study of confidence, restraint, and refined glamour. Each silhouette balances sensuality with composure, a quiet assertion that true power belongs to those who command attention simply by being themselves.

In the interview that follows, Halperin reflects on the inspirations, palette, and philosophy behind his latest collection. Meeting Halperin, one is struck not by extravagance, but by intention. His vision does not seek to shock; it seeks to resonate.

“I’m excited about presenting the new collection,” he begins. “It starts with inspiration from Madame X, which I saw at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, where I live.” Once considered scandalous, the painting becomes, in his hands, a meditation on identity. “What truly moved me is the ability to create portraits that reveal so much about the subject. To me, this is precisely what fashion does, it uncovers something deeper about the person wearing it.”

Rather than rewriting Ungaro’s legacy, Halperin engages in a thoughtful dialogue with it. “For me, it’s about taking the classic elements that Mr Ungaro created and making them relevant for today, not to shock, but to evolve, and to focus on beauty.”

The collection unfolds through a deliberately restrained palette, grounded in black and white, punctuated by metallics and Ungaro’s signature red. “Red becomes a contrast colour, very Ungaro,” he explains. Yet beyond colour, it is craftsmanship that anchors the collection. “It’s always about the workmanship and the details. That’s what I love to bring into the collection.”

One of the most compelling tensions in his work lies in its duality. Tailoring intersects with fluid silhouettes; menswear codes soften into feminine expression; structure meets movement. “I love the idea of blending tailoring, menswear, and very feminine pieces. It creates contrast and something that feels new,” Halperin notes.

He also identifies a gap in the modern wardrobe. “There is a significant void in what I consider event dressing, not just for evening, but for daytime as well,” he observes. His solution lies in layering, pieces that transition effortlessly across occasions, hours, and identities. “The idea is to create looks you can wear to an event without them necessarily being eveningwear. That’s something people need today.”

Ultimately, the collection does not proclaim. It lingers. It suggests that contemporary elegance is not about excess, but precision; not spectacle, but authenticity. “I believe in bringing beauty into the world,” Halperin says simply. “We need it now more than ever.” In a world craving quiet refinement, perhaps this is the most powerful statement of all.