KRISTINA VIIRPALU COUTURE

Can you tell us a little about your background and what is influencing your work?

My passion for fashion comes from my childhood. My grandmother used to own a fashion atelier in the 50s and my mother also worked in the atelier as a seamstress. They both worked with private customers, like I do now. You can say I grew up in the middle of fashion and sewing. Having this as my background, I design for powerful feminine, strong-charactered, self-respecting woman in mind who knows that her strength lies in the harmony of her wisdom and beauty.



How did you discover your passion for designing?

I guess it happened when I discovered the Estonian National heritage handcrafted bridal Haapsalu shawl. I was designing clothes before that already, but this is when I found my inspiration for my unique style and collections. Haapsalu shawl is a piece of handcrafted art from a small town located in Western Estonia. Haapsalu is famous for this hundreds of years old knitting technique. The structure of the pattern is light and fragile like a spider’s web, complete with little dots in the pattern that can only be hand knitted, no machine can replicate it. This knit is historically used in making bridal shawls, but my design recreates them as bridal gowns. Until this day, this unique hand-knitting technique is handed down from mothers to daughters in Haapsalu, and there among those masters found my knitters who create my bridal gowns with these knits. One dress takes about a month of full working hours to complete. After presenting my first collection based on these heritage inspired dresses, I was nominated for the Estonian Fashion Award and it widen interest in my work. 



What is your design process when creating a new collection?

It usually takes about six months to create a collection. I start with the idea, concept and vision for the whole collection. Then comes the preparation part, sketching of designs and choosing the fabrics. Then starts the actual process of creating the garments. Every hand-knitted and embroidered garment takes one to two months to finish, so it’s a very labour-intensive process.

After each look is finished and ready, we photograph them for a look book and present them at a catwalk, complete with music, choreography, accessories and everything, in a location with a show to tell the whole conceptual story behind. 



What is the most popular silhouette brides request from you?

I discuss silhouettes with my clients based on what would flatter their figure the best. It’s always teamwork. But what my brides request from me the most these days is not a classic bridal gown, but a set of bodysuit and one or two skirts. They will wear the bodysuit with a full skirt to give an impression of a full gown, but will later in the evening change the full skirt for a less formal, more practical shorter skirt for the party. And can this way also wear different parts of their wedding gown styled with the rest of their wardrobe later too. 



What are the most important things brides should keep in mind whilst choosing their gown? The bigger concept of their wedding, location, climate, season. Firstly of course a gown to flatter their figure in the best possible way, but yes, thinking about fitting in with the bigger concept of the whole event is in no way less important. 



What is your favourite aspect of lingerie?

My bodysuits are rather meant to be worn as a top or a bodice, a complete look with pants or skirts. But yes, on some occasions, they may act as delicate lingerie too. 

What is your favourite aspect of lingerie?

My bodysuits are rather meant to be worn as a top or a bodice, a complete look with pants or skirts. But yes, on some occasions, they may act as delicate lingerie too. 



What does a day in the life Kristina Viirpalu of look like?

I am one woman juggling all parts of my life every day. As a company owner, designer, running errands, being a mum and a wife, cooking dinners and jogging at seaside. Probably the biggest role in my everyday life is the music accompanying it all. I love to listen to jazz and classical music all the time. It inspires me in my life and creation. 



Describe your personal style and its influences or inspirations. And does it reflect on the dresses you design?

My design colour palette is mostly black-white-red-grey, my own favourite colours. I also love bright and vibrant colours, which can be seen in the abundance of colour in our bodysuits. From textiles, I like to use a lot of wool and silk crepes that are smooth and flattering on anybody. My own style is influenced and inspired a lot by my designs and vice versa. I wear a lot of my own designs. 

As for inspirations, I find them in art, architecture, cinema - from all over the world. And of course from my National cultural and historic heritage. I also have a degree in choreography from my earlier days, so all my life I've been inspired by dance and music. I think in addition to beauty, clothing must also be comfortable and vital. 



In your opinion,  what sets your brand apart?

What makes my designs unique, are the techniques used to create them and the fact that every garment is completely unique and one-of-a-kind. My main clientele are private customers. We use a lot of Estonian national heritage patterns which we modernize. Every garment that comes out of my studio is my personal creation. I design every garment from start to finish. The whole process from design to cutting and sewing and embroidery takes place in-house in our atelier, which is located in Tallinn Old Town - in an old dignified house from the middle ages. Our collective too is pretty small, but it’s intentional to keep all the creation under personal control. I rather prefer making less to be able to have a personal connection with my customers. My clients can be sure they get a personalized one-off garment that no one else in the whole world has. This is our greatest strength and uniqueness. 



What is one piece of advice you would give to every woman regarding style?

It depends a lot on the personality and uniqueness of the person. There is no universal advice. Maybe only that your inner world has to reflect the outer self and vice versa. 



What is the next step for Kristina Viirpalu Couture?

My collections have always been about creating exclusively for the client. I offer my clients the ultimate bespoke luxury pieces created personally for them. This kind of more sustainable approach to fashion is creating a better place for us all to live in. In the future I see my brand expanding more outwards to reach more like-minded fashion lovers across the whole world.