COSTUME DESIGNS AND STYLING
Disney+ Cruella
All images & clips: Disney+
BY XIAOXIAO - 19 JUNE 2021
The Half-Black & Half-White Haired Estella
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Based on The Hundred and One Dalmatians by
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The Disney+ film - Cruella the Black and White Witch was filmed in London on the 1970s settings. The most exciting features of this film being the costumes and styling.
Emma Stone plays the half-black and half-white haired Estella, nicknamed Cruel, a quirky and fashion-loving girl who, after a difficult upbringing, unwittingly becomes an up-and-coming fashion designer sensation in the British fashion industry when her true nature emerges in a moment of revenge for her mother. The 134-minute film features her in 47 exquisite looks, drawing inspiration from Vivienne Westwood, John Galliano and Alexander McQueen's many punk and high-fashion creations, bringing Cruela to the screen in both a proud and sultry manner.
Emma Thompson plays Baroness von Hellman, a prestigious fashion designer who wears 33 sumptuous gowns throughout the film, with outfits inspired by Dior's 1950s and 1960s, each look paired with fine jewellery and exquisite hairstyles, the whole thing is in high gear at all times.
The Baroness has a magnificent atelier and a prominent window display space in the LIBERTY department store for advertising and often participates in fashion weeks. The Baroness was a magnificent woman in every aspect, often dressed in gorgeous outfits of fine taffeta, princess satin and silk, goldish brown and gold headscarf with fine and expensive jewellery reminiscent of the DIOR dames of the 1950s in contrast to Cruella's black and white designs.
“Traditional fashion highlights women's elegance and beauty in details
while emerging fashion exudes women's independence and individuality in all direction.
Both fashion styles are different and they originated from different backgrounds and eras,
but each design expresses women's charms.”
— XIAOXIAO
- continue
COSTUME DESIGNS AND STYLING OF DISNEY+ CRUELLA
With a friend's help, she found a job at LIBERTY, her work is clean. One day after she had gotten drunk, she completely redesigned the window display of the Baroneses at the store that she had never like it. When the Baroness saw all of these, she got a job at the Baroness studio. The newspaper dress in the window is as if seeing Vivienne Westwood 1995 Autumn/Winter dress. It also reflects Cruella's unruly character. 
In the shadows of an out-of-sight attic, Creulla made her costumes on a table with a sewing machine where everything round is more than casual.
At the Baroness's black and white themed ball, Creulla made an entrance when the Baroness was about to make a toast to herself which got the attention of everyone. Creulla drank some wine and spill the remaining onto the full-length white cloak she was wearing before asking for a light where she inflamed her white cloak to reveal a body-hugging red gown she is wearing beneath amazing those in attendance with a little bit of angst.
This red dress, designed by designer Ian Wallis, was inspired by Charles James' "Tree" red dress from the 1950s. The scene was inspired by Alexander McQueen's autumn/winter 1998 show 'Doomed Women' featuring model Annabelle Neilson in a red fringed dress surrounded by flames, her body swaying fearlessly as she stared at the audience around her.
With this costume transition at the ball, Cruella officially declared war on the Baroness. And from that moment onwards, the young Cruella's anger, individuality and angularity were unabashedly released in all other outfits she worn. 
The most eye-catching scene in the movie was when Cruella stepped firmly onto the roof of the car and covered the car with a huge red and black petal veil. The skirt is 12 meters long. Designer had anticipated that the skirtshould be light for Emma Stone easily to stand on the roof. The inside of the long skirt is of black gauze, and outside is hand-cut and sewn with 5,060 petals. The top is a military uniform with badges and a carriage decoration on the shoulders. It's a magnificent impression of Alexander McQueen's style.
In another scene when the Baroness was having a party, Cruella and her friends drove the garbage truck to the gate, wearing a asymmetrical corset with printed with their own reports and 40-foot-long tail skirt standing at the back of the garbage truck, that moment she became the darling under the spotlight. Reminiscent of the high-definition corset dress designed by John Galliano during DIOR. Cruella exudes unpredictability and freedom. Being young can be romantic, fresh, or prickly.
Traditional fashion presentation highlights women's elegance and beauty in details while emerging fashion presentation exudes women's independence and individuality in all direction. Both are different fashion styles born in different era and backgrounds, but each design expresses all the charms of women in her way.
BEHIND-THE-SCENE
—Art Director—
FIONA CROMBIE won the 72nd British Film Academy Awards for Best Art Direction in 2019 with the film "Favourite", Nominated for the Academy Award for Best Art Director and won the 23rd American Art Directors Guild Film Award for Best Historical Film Art Director. Big changes have taken place in London in the past 40 years. Fiona Crombie had to use a lot of hand-made props for the scene-setting and old furniture to restore as much as possible the London in the 70s with its small living environment detail of people in that era.
—Costume Design—
JENNY BEAVAN won the 59th Oscar Award for Best Costume Design in 1981 for A Room with a View and the 88th Oscar Award for Best Costume Design in 2016 for Mad Max: Fury Road. The film is set in London in the 1970s, which coincides with the young age of the designer. For the designer herself, many are vividly remembers her. Cruella's style was made by JENNY BEAVAN and IAN WALLIS. The Baroness's style was made by JENNY BEAVAN who collaborated with JANE LAW. They completed many styles in the studio located on the south coast of England.
—Make-Up & Hair—
NADIA STACEY won the best makeup and hairstyle award in 2019 at the 72nd British Academy of Film Awards for The Favourite. In 1970, London was full of avant-garde and punk, including a sense of randomness, which can be seen in Cruella. The most memorable is the English of "The FUTURE" sprayed on the face, reminiscent of British rock in the 1970s, such as "Nevermind the Bollocks" by the Sex Pistols. NADIA STACEY not only make multiple makeup and styling for Estella, Cruella and the Baroness, she also made 152 wigs for the party and 88 wigs for the charity party with her team.
